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numerous issues with this one-

If you can get onto TOPIX you will see that there is in excess of 30 variables that impact on when stop/start will function or not. It's also rudimentary programmed to work about 90 seconds as another variable is ambient temperature and A/C fan setting.

some models 2015/16 have an issue with the gateway module not shutting down which causes a battery drain- battery drain is the primary variable for this system not working. LR issued a software fix for cars affected by it. This did not apply to my car.

For me it was much more simple- there was a mis-wire from factory where one of the systems was put on full power draw would drain my battery to the point I would get a warning. When this rectified, all is normal.

For me, the technology is pretty useless, it is only of benefit if you are at traffic lights for long periods of time or during slow traffic light cycling. For most of us in the big smoke we don't stop at lights long enough for there to be a benefit in terms of fuel saving.

by the time my car ticks off on all the variables It only works about 25% of the time I am on the road-
 

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On a slightly related note: Is there a way to have the auto start/stop default to OFF instead of ON? I don't care for the feature, generally, and would rather not have to turn it off every time i get in the car. Just curious!
 
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Dhargis - no way to default to off as far as I know (has been discussed before in the forum).
 

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Technically there is a way to disable the feature (confirmed to me by the dealer) BUT global legislations states that a car sold with this feature must have it active at all times- It has something to do with emissions targets.

for now, you gotta press the off button when you get in the car or migrate to either a very hot or cold climate where the system won't work anyway- better still install a dash cam and run parking mode, the power drain on the battery from your dash cam will render stop/start non operational
 

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When the system works 100% of the time some owners are mad and when it stops working mainly because of high electrical load or low battery other owners are mad.

The only 2 times I turn the start/stop off is when it is raining heavily and the windows some time mist up when the engine restarts, on the highway I turn it off because after a high speed drive I like the turbo to have a chance to cool down and the engine temperature time to stabilize.
 

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So my start /stop stopped working most of the time, way to many short trips and finally would only work one day a week.:confused: We went away on holidays and when we came home (flew not drive) the first time I went into the car it flashed a warning that battery was low and to start engine. A week later same message after sitting listening to the radio for 20 minutes (numerous restarts :laugh:) so time to do something.


Bought and wired in a CTEX battery charger (Land Rover factory charger is made by them) set it up to charge and the next day the start/stop worked perfectly again , actually better than when I first bought the car.:)


https://www.ctek.com/ or https://smartercharger.com/


I bought the MXS 5.0 (part# 40-206) and was recommended by owners on the UK site
 

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Took mine in for the auto stop/start not working. They replaced the battery and presto it works. If the battery does not have enough juice, the feature will not work.
 

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I reckon the problem is multilayered- I am now on my 7th, yes 7th fix for the Disco with respect to stop/start- unlike others, my car was not one of those that had issues with the gateway module, apparently my charging system works fine and battery is good...

I have read every parameter that activates or deactivates the stop/start and have applied as a constant across the last 15,000km. I have logged every trip, what features are on, what are off, what the ambient temp is at the start of a journey what it is at the end of a journey, how many times stop/start actually worked, how many times it partially worked and how many times the car stops after the engine temperature has passed the "blue" notch- I measure my battery voltage every morning before I take off and when I come back at the end of the day. At the 8000km mark I turned all features off and logged 4000km of data-

Basically in my car- there is no set pattern to when the system works or doesn't. It doesn't matter whether I am running systems within the parameters mentioned in the hand book or no systems at all- There is no pattern to its operation....I have has instances where I have been stopped at the lights for over 1minute, the car is still running, then suddenly stop/start activates..


I have been driven to log 15000km of data because I am tired of how JLR have dealt with this and many many other issues with my car...


I am certain that the computer in my car is F#@$ED. My fuel efficiency is out of whack too- According to the computer the car will return an average of 10Lt/100km with a 90% driving style across a journey in the city where the car has stopped 4 times in a 30km journey and travelling at an average speed of 52kms/Hr, YET the fuel poured into the car week to week is the same as it was 1 year ago (I drive the same roads on this data logging process at the same times of the day) when the computer would display 8.2 - 8.5Lt/100km on the same journey with the same amount of stops with a similar average speed and a lower driving style. So it shouldn't actually be less efficient if Im using the same fuel for the same distance travelled!

Further, the car will maintain set cruise control speed on straight flat roads and incline roads- but will fail to hold speed on slight downhill roads- you can feel the computer applying the brake a couple of times and then gives up so the car rolls and before you know it you are doing 100km/hour on a 70km/hr road.

My theory is that the stop/start has nothing to do with the battery system (at least in my case), I believe that the drive by wire is off either because the computer is driving it wrong OR the drive by wire is sensing the wrong inputs..

In two weeks time- I have a meeting with the GM of the JLR dealer I take my car- I have warned them of the data I have collected and the manner in which I collected it, so that it does not come to them as a shock!

Basically, the car will get handed back to them and I don't want it back until everything is fixed- I don't care if they have to replace all systems including computer and re-flash my car...The experience has not been pleasant...
 

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I've been told the auto stop is on a separate battery. It's not the car battery.
I know that has been floated around, and may be the case for other LR/RR - but 99% sure that there is no other battery other than the "normal" battery.
 

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I've been told the auto stop is on a separate battery. It's not the car battery.

The Disco has one battery only! I had posted all the info before hand. Cars with an aux battery do not use the aux battery for starting rather it is used to keep power to braking and other essential components.


I looked up all the specs for the car and there does not seem to be an auxiliary battery as in some vehicles with start/stop.

"The battery is an H7 80 Ah, 800 CCA Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) Valve Regulated Lead-Acid (VRLA) battery on:
All vehicles with auto stop/start system.
All vehicles with Fuel Fired Booster Heater (FFBH) with Cabin Heat Function.
The battery is an H7 80 Ah 700 CCA Flooded type battery on:
GTDi 2.0L Petrol engine vehicles without auto stop/start system.
AJ200 Diesel engine vehicles without auto stop/start system."


A separate electronic device is provided to maintain proper voltage to components.

"A Voltage Quality Module (VQM) is equipped to vehicles with the auto stop/start system. The VQM is located adjacent to the
Central Junction Box (CJB), behind the glovebox. During an auto stop/start engine start cycle the VQM maintains some of the
vehicle’s electrical systems by supplying a support voltage around the vehicle's electronic components during an engine
restart. This allows crucial vehicle systems to continue uninterrupted when there is a sudden draw of current from the battery."
 

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Another confounding issue to stop/start not working is ABS-

apparently there is a known problem with the ABS system drawing too much power from the car- draining systems and rendering stop/start and potentially other systems inactive..
 

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Another confounding issue to stop/start not working is ABS-

apparently there is a known problem with the ABS system drawing too much power from the car- draining systems and rendering stop/start and potentially other systems inactive..
How would you know if the ABS system is drawing too much power?
 

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you won't know- but JLR do

my car has numerous issues widely reported on this site- I spent 15000km testing and proving my issues. This has forced JLR to consult their senior automotive engineer. So now I receive(d) daily updates on my issues with respect to the car.

The first issue they contacted me on- was that the ABS was drawing too much power from my car apparently in some models this is a known issue to JLR, this was draining the battery so the car was turning off functions (ie stop/start).

The second issue for my car was Forward Collision Detection, they were not sure if it impacts the other issues i have BUT until now my issues with my car were not considered terminal or safety risk..

Anyway, they stopped with the Daily updates after they tried to replicate I fault I provided evidence for and fried the screen on the car- They replaced the screen with the last one of my type available in Australia and fried that too...Now they have to wait two weeks until one is built and shipped from UK- but since the car does not have a screen, they apparently can not do any more fault finding...

I will just keep on driving the full spec Velar they gave me as a loaner..
 

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I'm having issues as well with my start stop but the service advisor just said I don't travel enough to charge the battery so he just reset the system and it's working again...

... for about a week, which it then stops working. He said everything is normal (battery holding charge and alternator charging) so can't do anything about it.

I get the feeling that they won't investigate further and just chalk it up as normal.

Can we get the battery replaced as part of warranty or is that considered wear and tear?
 

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If you looked back in this thread you would have noticed that I had posted that I solved the problem by using a ctex charger. I wired the adapter directly to the battery for ease of use. Used the charger once and have had no more problems with the start stop. 90 % or more of my trips are very short. Using the ctex smart charger is reported to increase the life of the battery so in the winter I will hook it up once a month.


Wife still turns the start/stop off and I turn it off in heavy traffic, , highway driving and rainy days ( windows mist up).
 

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If you looked back in this thread you would have noticed that I had posted that I solved the problem by using a ctex charger. I wired the adapter directly to the battery for ease of use. Used the charger once and have had no more problems with the start stop. 90 % or more of my trips are very short. Using the ctex smart charger is reported to increase the life of the battery so in the winter I will hook it up once a month.


Wife still turns the start/stop off and I turn it off in heavy traffic, , highway driving and rainy days ( windows mist up).
I saw that post and am considering to get the charger, however I was told that the system gets "locked out" once the voltage drops a certain level and will need to be reset by their computer.

The charger might be the solution for me due to my driving pattern but I still can't understand what are the parameters that the system checks before it starts working. Is the alternator sized too small that it can't handle charging the battery on short trips? Or is there a leak somewhere that's drawing charge from the battery? What voltage level does it stop working, and what level does it lock out?
 

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Not sure about getting "locked out". After going away on a 3 week vacation I came home to find a dirty car and a rear almost flat tire( daughter borrowed the car while we where away). I drove the car to the road and washed it, then connected a electric pump to the tire. Got in the car and a warning flashed that I had to start the car because of low battery. Started it drove into my garage and left it, next day no low battery warning. A couple of short drives , one to get tire fixed, and a few days later again the warning came up. So the voltage had to have dropped below minimum for the car to be happy.
Bought the charger and stop/start worked and has worked for the last 2 months with no reset at the dealer.


My driving style is lots of very short trips followed by one or 2 trips on the highway per year. Gives me terrible fuel econpmy.
 
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