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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone replaced their rear brakes? My brake warning came on yesterday and I was looking for info. I can find info on the earlier Evoque's but not the Disco Sport (the newer Evoque uses the same rear brakes).

I am going to replace the rotors and pads. I am not going with ceramic pads this time. I feel that the ceramic pads are not doing a good enough job of scrubbing off the rust that a semi-metalic pad could do. The rust build-up on the old rotors is why I think that I am replacing the pads at 19k miles.

I did brakes on my RRS and Defender, so I an somewhat used to Land Rover brakes, but I could use some tips with the EPB.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Has anyone replaced their rear brakes? My brake warning came on yesterday and I was looking for info. I can find info on the earlier Evoque's but not the Disco Sport (the newer Evoque uses the same rear brakes).

I am going to replace the rotors and pads. I am not going with ceramic pads this time. I feel that the ceramic pads are not doing a good enough job of scrubbing off the rust that a semi-metalic pad could do. The rust build-up on the old rotors is why I think that I am replacing the pads at 19k miles.

I did brakes on my RRS and Defender, so I an somewhat used to Land Rover brakes, but I could use some tips with the EPB.

Thanks in advance.
more or less just a question did you get around to doing the brakes in the rear if so... how difficult was it I understand that their is a sensor on each side.... but I'm nor sure as the electronic e-brake and what not... let me know!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I did it last weekend. Not tough at all. There are videos on how to set the EPB for Maintenance Mode. After you do that, you can use a c-clamp, big pliers, piston retracting tool, etc... to push the piston back into the caliper. Do be careful with a c-clamp or pliers, the EPB motor is on the back side os the caliper.

The sensor is only on the passenger side. The sensor harness and plug is MUCH easier to get to than it was on my old RRS.

For parts I used:

Raybestos rotors P/N 981820
Centric pads P/N 104.18210
Carlson Sensor P/N 19146 (LR P/N LR072544)

Tools that I remember:
7mm allen for caliper slide bolts
15mm for caliper carrier bolts
6 or 8mm for some little bracket bolt that was in the way of the lower carrier bolt
Big Torx for the rotor retaining screw (like a T30 or something)

I have driven about 600 miles since then. Zero complaints. The rotors have not been building up any rust in the friction area. They are painted/coated, and have had zero rust in the non-friction area. No vibration or squealing either.
 

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hmmm, funny you mention the sensor, cause I was told by JLR that their was one for each caliper, in any case I suppose I will do them myself! haha if it is that easy and no special computers needed to reset anything. did you have to replace the sensors? I'm just doing a regular pad and rotor change on my vehicle as it is due, not so much for enhanced performance.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Nope, just one sensor for the Passenger side rear caliper (inner pad only). I have not done the front brakes yet, but on my old RRS there was one sensor in the rear, and one in the front. The sensors look to be the same design, just with different length harnesses.

No computer or anything is required to clear the message. When you turn on the ignition after replacing the pads/sensor, the brake pad warning will be clear. It will also clear from your Land Rover Remote App on your phone.

If I understand your last statement, you don't have the warning message yet, and you want to know if you need to replace the sensor? If that is correct:

I would have the sensor on-hand prior to changing the pads/rotors. The plastic of the sensor gets hard and brittle with the heat on the pad. I tried swapping a set of pads on another truck once and the sensor broke as soon as I started to pull it out of the pad.

If you have the warning already, the sensor has tripped (by wearing into the rotor), and must be replaced with the pads and/or rotors.
 

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Yeah no warning as yet unless the warning is "service required", in which case thats from an oil change that I haven't reset yet out of laziness lol. But I do have the parts on hand and ready to do the work when time permits.
 

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Hello All...

Thought I would jump into this thread with a question I am hoping you might know the answer to. I was told at my latest service appointment that my rear brake pads are at 1-2ml and need to be changed. I only have 24,000kms on the car. Is this normal? My other cars (non-Land Rover) have always gone 40,000+ before pads are needed.

I want to make sure this is normal, and not the dealership trying to gouge me for $800.

Any help, much appreciated!
 

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Hello All...

Thought I would jump into this thread with a question I am hoping you might know the answer to. I was told at my latest service appointment that my rear brake pads are at 1-2ml and need to be changed. I only have 24,000kms on the car. Is this normal? My other cars (non-Land Rover) have always gone 40,000+ before pads are needed.

I want to make sure this is normal, and not the dealership trying to gouge me for $800.

Any help, much appreciated!
just had mine done last week. The rear ones. 35000km and my dealer said I was in the range for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Same here. I replaced mine at 20k miles or 32k kilometers.
 

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Hi! Anybody have instructions how to set the EPB to service mode? I tried one from the evoque but couldn’t make it to work (where it’ll show that it’s in service mode). But I found an instruction how to disable the automatic EPB, where it says:

Turn engine on. Switch knob/gear in “N” neutral. Turn off engine.

Press start without/brake pedal just to turn ignition on. Then press/hold brake pedal and press down EPB to release parking brake. Release brake pedal.

Next, press/hold down EPB.
Then press start/stop while continuing to hold EPB for 5 secs.
Release EPB.

That procedure seems to work to release it from Park brake but is it sufficient for service?
 

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Update: Getting the electronic sequence to get EPB to maintenance mode just doesn’t work mine for some reason. But I was still able to change the rear brake pads following method used by Audi/VW with EPB shown all over YouTube. Basically follow the method I used above to disable automatic EPB to prevent activation while working on it. Then, unbolted the EPB from the caliper. Manually rewind the EPB, compress the piston back with a caliper tool. Don’t use c-clamp. Change pads. Very easy, works well. Zero error codes.
 

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Found this page looking for info on replacing my brakes - perhaps someone who has done it before can help. I have replaced brakes on cars many times so no concerns. The question I had is around the torque values for various bolts. One document I found lists the torque value for the bolts that attach the brake caliper mounting plate to be 200 Nm. AND it says you have to replace these bolts every time you do a brake job. Does this sound right? Did anyone else who has done a brake job replace these?

Thanks.

DS
 

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Hi. I can’t believe rake pads on 18k mileage disco should be so pitted. It only does long journeys with little brake use. All my other makes of cars have lasted between 35k and 60 k before replacement. Are jlr brake pads fit for purpose
 

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Nice to see you have posted same thing 3 times.. Are you sure the Brake "Pads" are pitted??? Very hard to see the pads unless off the car.
 

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Hi, I just changed today my rear brake pads, on nearly 30.000 km.
The pad wear sensors are on the rear right and front left pads.
Even if I changed the pads, the message on the dash for pads wear is still present. Do I have to change the sensor as well?
 

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Typically the sensor work once only after they contact the disc.Once the sensor is changed the message will go away.


Sorry a little more work for you.
 

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Strange caliper pin bushings

My 2017 Disco Sport has a different boot/bushing for one front caliper slide pin than it does the other. Anyone else have this? None of the replacement boots I can find would work with mine as it appears the boot that was in there would have had to have been installed when the bushing was as it was formed around the metal. I tore the old one out while doing the typical pad/rotor job but to my dismay I won't have a boot to put back on the pin. The bushing (that appears welded inside the pin slide hole) holds the pin pretty **** tight but I'm concerned about it seizing without the boot to protect the lubricant.

Please help!
 

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Hi Folks, glad to be a member here and thanks in advance to those who chime into the conversion. I am a little surprised with our 2017 discovery Sport, currently have our truck at the dealership after the Brake lights going on for the first time. I saw the light appear at 11,900 Km, thats right under 12k Kilometres. I am scratching my head because the dealership just messaged me saying;

"The technician has finished the inspection on your vehicle and the brake pad light is on due to the rear brakes being at 2 mm which trips the sensor. The cost to replace the rear brakes would be $1007.19 plus tax (brake pads, discs, sensor and labor included)."

I'll add the car is a lease, not sure if that changes how they handle a car, and we have an 8 month baby and the car since Dec. 2017, both work at home and drive quite careful with the recent born. Have always had the car in Eco mode and have never put in sport mode (to help give you an idea of how we drive).

Any suggestions? Advice?
 
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