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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I purchased a 2017 Discovery Sport in November with 41900 miles on it. Started noticing a couple day in that it was making a boggy sound when I would accelerate up a steep hill near my house. It stops when the RPMs get above 2. Now it does it at random times when RPMs are just below two. Last week I was on the highway and an alert came on the dash that said the gas cap wasn’t tight. Checked it, no issues. Turned the car off and then back on and it reset. Today, I noticed it was driving hard (4 degrees out though). On the way home, I could feel it revving while driving. When I got off the highway and was at a red light waiting, the needle on the RPMs started going up and down (foot was on the brake, not gas) and engine revved 3-4 times the it stopped.
Anyone have an idea if this might be the transmission or something else? I purchased an extended warranty and was really hoping I wouldn’t need it or the LR one already.
 

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Not sure what a boggy sound is,. I assume you are talking about pre ignition, Are you using a high octane fuel?

Looked up boggy (never heard term used before) and it means lugging, using to high a gear or fuel. Try driving in sport mode to see if there is any change.
 

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I wonder if resetting the the transmission settings might help, as per this post?

Just something you could try for free. 🤷‍♂️
 
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Thinking about your problem. I wonder if the previous owner had a habit of "Topping up " the tank when refueling. Topping up can cause damage to the carbon canister and purge valve and will have an effect on performance in strange ways. It will not always give a code to the computer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I know the previous owners lived in New Jersey and since they don’t pump their own gas, I’m guessing this could have happened regularly. I personally don’t, but I’m sure plenty of people do.
 

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My 2015 diesel does this when gently accelerating up a hill in a high gear. It seems the torque converter or gearbox is not downshifting when it should. I haven't found a way to fix it but using sport mode for hilly highway driving helps.
 

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We had issues like this, then got a check engine light. The dealer replaced a spark plug, resolving the issue.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Update: took the car into a LR dealer. They couldn’t replicate the noise after two test drives. I ended up taking the mechanic out and replicated it. He thought it sounded like something was loose. Took it back to the shop, he starts to look and finds a massive fluid leak under the bottom panel. Had to rent a car to make the trip home even though they had three loaner vehicles there. Service guy said it could be a quick fix as long as they have the parts and don’t have to get them from England. But they don’t think that’s what was causing the noise! I’m overjoyed!
Thankfully it is still under warranty.
The service guy was also nice enough to tell me I needed new brakes, rotors, and tires. I guess when they can’t get you one way, they’ll find another.
 

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They should have given you a loaner. I would price the other items elsewhere just for your own info.

Now to find out what is causing the noise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Leaks were from the transmission and a sleeve needed replaced. Bad news is, the noise is still there AND I heard a rubbing sound while turning right on the way home. Now the front drivers side is making the sound of a freight train as of two days ago when going straight and turning left. I had no issues with the brakes/rotors/axel until they “checked” them. We asked about a loaner car when we picked it up a week ago. They said they only give them if you bought the car from them.
I am beyond upset. They sent me a “thank you” email this morning that they can shove. I will not be going back to that dealer ever again. I wish the commercials would have shown all the fun I’d have at the garage twice in a month 4 months after buying it. I wouldn’t have wasted my money.
 

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Did you buy the extended warranty from Land Rover?
How close is the next closest dealer. It may be against your better wishes but going back to the first dealer to fix their mistakes may be the quickest way to do the repair.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
They told us that the CPO extended warranty was purchased for up to 100,000 miles and that it was transferable to us when we bought it. So it’s still covered.
The husband did some investigating after we found a large bolt laying in the driveway on Friday. Turns out it fell out of the brake housing/caliper area, causing it to fall apart, slide to the left, and rub on the inside of the rim. He called the dealer where it was fixed, and they said that part of the car would have been taken off and put back on in order to do the transmission work. They are owning the “negligence” of the mechanic who originally worked on it. They are coming with a flat bed to pick it up tomorrow and bringing it back. They said they are going to fix it free of charge. I’m afraid something is horribly wrong with it now because even though he put the bolt back in and put the housing back together, it still sounds like a freight train and the inside of the rim is all mangled. Hopefully they don’t put more miles on it, because when they had it for the transmission, they put 45 miles on it.
The next closest dealer is about the same distance away but east instead of south.
 
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