Discovery Sport Forum banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I wanted to share my experience and pictures with you. I installed an OEM hitch and electrics on my 5-seat 2016 DS today. Part numbers VPLCT0141 and VPLCT0183. Took my buddy and I about 5 hours to do. I used the accessory fitting guides (which I will be attaching some snips of). Apologies for lighting and for not documenting every step! I also bought a weeks' subscription to the service manual on Topix, but didn't use it as much as I thought, except for the specs on tightening force for some of the bolts and some info on the exhaust system -- you may not need it. The eTrailer website has a video showing how to remove the bumper on a DS, which is VERY helpful, but become irrelevant for this install at about 7min, 30secs into the video. Big props to them.

The dealership will have to program the electrics and built-in trailer brake module at the shop. They said it takes an hour or so to download and install. I had them throw this hour in when I bought the car. I'll report more on how this works out when I get this done. Supposed to modify the reverse camera settings and anti-sway features and other things I guess.

I put my rear tires on ramps for the install, using jack stands as a backup. I used the cardboard from the product box to lay on.

Step2:
Dropping the exhaust wasn't that bad and it's necessary for access. I used the eTrailer video here for unhooking the rubber hangers. I supported the front and rear with tension straps and lowered it down once everything was disconnected. I thought the instructions' picture was strange, until I got under there.







Steps 3-5 I'll defer to the eTrailer video. Pay attention to how the plastic pieces and wheel-well molding connects together and over- and under-lap. This will be important when putting it back together.
Steps 6-7 are self-explanatory.
Step 8 I'll defer again to the eTrailer video.
Step 9 is self-explanatory.

Steps 10-11 are easy, but keep your bolts accounted for.


For step 12, I used the hole saw in the corners and used my Dremel Multi-Max with a half-circle wood/drywall saw to make the straight lines and a sanding block to knock the rough off the edges. It worked really well. Sorry no pics of this.


Toss the parts from steps 13-14.

Steps 15-17 are self-explanatory. Have someone help lift the hitch -- it's HEAVY!. Pin it up by starting the bolts in the rear-most holes and tighten from there. The instructions say to tighten to 100Nm PLUS another 240-degree turn, but good Lord, that's tight! I got them to 100Nm and gave them an extra shove, and feel pretty confident about that.




Step 18 defers to the electrics package and those instructions. This went very well and as expected. Except for step 6 on the electrics where you fit the harness to the bracket. The lock-nuts seat inside recesses and it specifies to tighen to 2.2Nm. Well you have to tighen more than that just to turn the lock-nuts. One of my nuts stripped out the plastic recess on the back of the bracket and I had to pull it out and back it with a washer. Here's a pic of it stripped (bottom-left). The wiring fed through the bottom of the truck well and snapped right into the wheel-well.




Steps 19-21 are just buttoning everything up. When putting the bumper cover back on, make sure it doesn't over- or under-lap anything crazy. Pay attention to your step 3 notes on this.
Steps 22 and 23 are house-keeping.

Steps 24-26 confused me, but I think I'm already set for this. I looked and looked and didn't see how this applied to me. Maybe this is just if you don't have a camera already.

Here are some finished pictures. Note the electrical hookups swing up behind the bumper cover when not in use and swing down for use.




Here are the extra parts left over (big metal bumper not shown)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
Congrats on job well done - final "product" looks great..... and thanks for sharing - much appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I had my tow package electrics programmed at the dealership yesterday. From everyone's experience, what features does this unlock? What changes should I expect in my vehicle's software?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
First, THANK YOU for this. I'll be ordering my hitch soon and this will surely be a big help.

As for what the update adds, my understanding is "tow hitch assist" which uses the camera system to guide you to the trailer.

I haven't been here long enough to post links yet apparently, but google Land Rover tow hitch assist and you'll find a few vids that show it in action.

I had my tow package electrics programmed at the dealership yesterday. From everyone's experience, what features does this unlock? What changes should I expect in my vehicle's software?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Realizing this thread is a bit old..... I have a question about the wiring harnesses VPLCT0183G. How many pin connector is it? Does it plug in to existing wiring. I don’t have trailer brakes so do I need any dealer programming? Just trying to determine if I should drop $200 on a OEM harness vs aftermarket which is $54.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I just wanted add to this post and share my experience, primarily for North American owners. I have a 2016 5+2 Discovery Sport (w/spare wheel) - I wanted to get a hitch primarily for a bike rack, but also for occasional towing. My local LR dealer wanted close to $2k for the hitch and the etrailer version for the 5+2 model had been discontinued a couple years ago. Ultimately I (actually my neighbor who owns a body shop) was able modify the 5+2 swan head European hitch (VPLCT0143 - Tow Receiver for Discovery Sport (2015 Onwards) - For NAS Spec and Australian Market - 7-Seater With Spare Wheel (Aftermarket Version Comes with Release Tow Ball Rather Than Square Hole)) by welding a 2 inch receiver from Harbor Freight on to the hitch instead of bolting on the swan head hitch. It turned out really nice and the total parts cost was ~$300, including shipping from the UK. That said, its not for the faint of heart since there is some welding and cutting, but you can save a lot of money by taking this route.
7446
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top