[Pitt83]

I have usually done my own on the past few cars I've owned. There's usually someone who has published a YouTube on how to which makes it much easier.

Has anyone DIY oil changed their Discovery Sport? I'm assuming there's a skid plate to get at the oil pan and probably the filter. Can you remove and replace this while on your back in the driveway?

How difficult is it? I hate scheduling this with a dealer, being committed to that day and time, driving 45min each way and paying a fortune. I'd rather DIY when I have a spare 30 minutes.

 

[DiscoParty]

I have read that there is no drain plug under the oil pan. You may have to go with one of those siphon type oil change kits through the dipstick. They run about $50 for a 6L container and save you from having to crank on a drain plug, get dirty, bust your knuckles, etc.

I would first locate the oil filter before thinking of getting an oil change kit, though.

 

[Lenvo65]

I have changed the oil on my 2016 twice now. There is a skid plate (plastic though) with 6 or so 10mm bolts holding it on. I happen to have a 4 post lift, but it can be done with drive on ramps as well. There is a drain plug on the oil pan 15mm nut I think, and oil filter is also accessed from below. Oil Filter is a bit of a pain as there is a coolant hose that is partially blocking access, such that a strap oil filter wrench does not really work, but have a oil filter socket that I can put on a long extension that works. All in about $ 35 to $40 depending on what you pay for full synthetic oil.

 

[2Rovers_and_a_dog]

2016 Discovery Sport DIY Oil Change

Yes it can be done, takes about 30 minutes total. 2016s are different then 2012 thru 2014MY cartridge types (not sure about 2015MY). Mine is a 2016MY.

I use wheel ramps to roll the front end of the DS up. There are 6 10mm bold that hold an engine bay skid plate, or belly pan,
under engine. Takes about 2 minutes to remove and push to the side the plate to the side.

Let all the oil drain out into a big collection pan... I wait till its a slow drip to let everything drain out. Then do the oil filter. Unclip, I think its a cooling hose, and push that black hose to the side to expose the oil filter just behind the radiator or at the front of the oil pan. Loosen the oil filter with a cap that fits over the end of the filter... loosen a half turn, then put a plastic bag over the filter, and then continue turning the filter by hand till the filter comes off. The oil and filter will fall into the bag rather then onto your arms. I replaced the oil filter with FRAM GX3614.

Remember to put the hose clamp back around the hose that was blocking access to the filter. And remember to put the oil drain plug back in.

To Refill...use Castroil Synthetic 5W-30, although spec sheet says the engine takes 5.25 Qts... 5 qts doesn't seem to get the dip stick wet. 6 Qts will fill the engine to about to the middle of cross hatching on the dip stick, 6.25qts gets you to the top indicator hole on the dip stick. Do not add more or go above the cross hatching on the dip stick.
http://www.discoverysport.net/forum/images/DiscoverySport_net/icons/post_face_smile.png

 

[Dirtydisco]

Hi.
Thanks for all the info above but I'm not sure as to what oil to put back in. My manual (2015) states to use:
‘SAE 5W-30 meeting spec WSS-M2C913-C’, and that it ‘recommends Castrol Edge Professional’.
The Castrol professional stuff is hard to get hold of and much more expensive than other good quality fully synthetic oils.
The (Ford) WSS spec isn’t listed on any oils I can find but I’ve found a Ford service doc that states:
“If you are unable to find an oil that meets the specification defined in the vehicle fluids table, you must use SAE 5W-30 that meets the specification defined by ACEA A5/B5” which suggests that any ‘ACEA A5/B5’ 5W-30 oil will do.

From what I have read, the Castrol Professional oil contains a UV dye that can be used to verify what oil is in the car, I have no idea if there are other differences.
Can I ask what oil you have you been using and if you are at all concerned that not using the LR 'recommended' oil might cause warranty issues in case of an engine problem?
Thanks.

 

[Bill F]

Thanks for all the info above but I'm not sure as to what oil to put back in. My manual (2015) states to use:
‘SAE 5W-30 meeting spec WSS-M2C913-C’, and that it ‘recommends Castrol Edge Professional’.

Hmm the quote feature did not work

Local auto store all sell the Castrol oil with the recommended spec and I think that the "professional" is only sold at dealers, that way you come to them. Go to sites like Mobil and tell them what vehicle you drive and they will give recommendations. Cost between cheap oil and premium oil is not that great and over the course of a year almost nothing per mile or Kilometre.

 

[4sallypat]

Found some on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Volkswagen-A...r=8-1&keywords=castrol+edge+professional+5w30

 

[Dirtydisco]

Thanks for the responses.

4sallypat -I had seen that Castrol Pro on Amazon but discounted it as all the Q&A seems to refer to it being a diesel formulation. Maybe the 'LL03' label means it might be a specific variant for VW diesels?

Bill F - I agree, the Castrol pro does appear to be dealer only (even the Amazon link provided above is fulfilled by a VW dealer), the problem I'm having with internet searches & oil manufacturer sites is that most search results are for the European DS (with the diesel engine) so they recommend oils for that. When I tell the Mobil site I have a 2015 US spec DS, I get:
"Based on what you've told us, your vehicle manufacturer recommends a 5W-30 viscosity and oil that meets Ford WSS-M2C913-B or Ford WSS-M2C913-C. We currently do not offer any motor oils in the United States that meet these specifications."
The Castrol I've seen in the stores here (GA) don't appear to meet the Ford WSS spec or the ACEA A5/B5 spec or if they do, they don't list it on the bottle.
I definitely agree that it is worth paying for good oil & I may well be overthinking all this but I'm just very conscious of maintaining my warranty (while not wanting to pay dealer oil change prices!).

I have asked my dealer for their position on warranties with non recommended oil but haven't had a response yet. I'll post it here if I do.
Thanks.

 

[4sallypat]

I would not overthink the oil purchase - Professional or not - when changed frequently (like every 10K miles), I would not stress over that.

From what I understand, the dealer or independent mechanic can use oil other than the brand specified since they buy in bulk and meets minimum specs.
You are also protected from "wrong oil damages" by anyone who works at an ASE shop.

The LL03 spec is from BMW/Audi/Mercedes.
It's unfortunate that most auto parts places don't stock the higher grade oils - you have to either buy it from a dealer or try VW.
I used to buy my oils and DEF fluid from VW which was the same product as BMW, but different label and cheaper!

BTW: I used to change my oil on my old BMW and it required LL01 which was back then called Mobil 1 synthetic.

 

[Pitt83]

"then put a plastic bag over the filter"...This is pure genius!!!

 

[Davin2424]

Was in Costco today and noticed some Castrol Oil i hadn't see there before... This looks like it meets the criteria for oil for the Disco... Substantially cheaper than the dealer oil......

“If you are unable to find an oil that meets the specification defined in the vehicle fluids table, you must use SAE 5W-30 that meets the specification defined by ACEA A5/B5”

thoughts?

 

[Bill F]

Does not meet the standard for Land Rover or the Specs from Ford for same engine WSS-M2C913-C

But close enough for me

 

[Davin2424]

true.. BUT... its the only ACEA A5/B5 I've seen anywhere besides a specialty shop or dealership...

 

[Richard]

Anybody use Millers Premium, Automotive XF Longlife 0w30 Ford (8045),I ran a D5 Volvo work car for 280k on Millers.

Currently running a LR2 on Millers 5 30 C1 xf longlife cant swop it till dilution is sorted on DS

 

[Bill F]

Not sold in North America as far as I know.